One day I decided to go for a walk…

If you’ve been to Europe you’ve seen people who bring their dogs with them when they go out to eat. And it’s not only when eating outdoors, I personally have seen people bring their dogs inside of a restaurant and I have absolutely no problem with this. You see… the same people who bring their dogs with them to a restaurant are the people who walk their dogs with no leash. These dogs are trained, well-behaved, and well loved by their owners.

Over 10 years ago my cousin from France was visiting. She, two of my daughters, my dog, and I took a trip to Gatlingburg, Tennessee in October when the color of the leaves was absolutely magnificent. We decided to go into town for lunch, found a place with outdoor seating and tried to get a table with my little dog in tow. ABSOLUTELY NOT! Eventually we had to settle for a table next to the fence surrounding the patio with Templeton on the outside of the fence. He was well behaved and sat quietly while people passing by would stop to pet him and remark on how he should be able to sit with his pack.

So here I am in Spain, eating outdoors at a wonderful cafe on the plaza, sharing my space with a pigeon. It’s not even a well behaved pigeon. It wanders around from table to table sometimes taking flight near diners.

So I ask you if you have to share your outdoor space (I’ll leave the indoor controversy for now) with someone’s well behaved chihuahua or beagle or an on-the-loose pigeon, which would you choose? Think about it…a well behaved dog gives you and your partner something to talk about other than how big the Amex bill is. Or in the case of my husband in me we don’t argue because I’m enchanted by the dog at the table next to us and wondering how our little dog is alone at home. Unruly children are captivated by a dog and don’t need to be pacified by a parent’s phone. That huge steak isn’t going to waste because Fido is going to share the meal. Plus the pigeon is basically a free agent. No one is in charge of it.

I’m going to suggest one more controversial thought. I was in a restaurant in Molinaseca when I saw a gray cat saunter into the restaurant, obviously unaccompanied. Two little girls at a table near me were captivated by this cat. No one screamed at the presence of this feline, no one’s head exploded, the cat didn’t even beg for food. It just walked around and left.

Full disclosure…I’m allergic to cats so I’ve never developed a real appreciation for the feline personality but I certainly respect others who do. If you want to bring you cat and it’s well behaved and willing to sit under your table for the duration of the meal…have at it.

I welcome (and encourage) your responses to this post.

Buen Camino

El Acebo, September 24, 2021

There’s a couple near me. He’s younger, Irish maybe. She’s older, Germanic. I can’t really hear their conversation and I don’t want to. I can hear the cadence of their voices and the conversation seems companionable. It’s pleasant and I feel happy to be in this place.

I stopped here because it seemed to be the only place open with food. The sign advertised empanadas. I was hungry and in need of a comfortable place after my morning.

I walked 8 miles from Foncebadon to El Acebo. I thought it was going to be an easy walk after the 16.76 miles that I did yesterday. It was not. It was cold, windy, and rainy. I stopped at Cruz de Fierro, had a little cry, sang a song, and left the stone I carried from home.

And now I’m here in a little hippy bar run by Germans. I love it. The food is simple and good, and the atmosphere is peaceful. Everybody seems to think that today is different somehow. The traffic is slower and maybe there is something different about the pilgrims.

I saw the Spanish man I walked with yesterday for a short time. He’s a former professor of humanities (in 5 languages) at Notre Dame. We had a most interesting conversation about health care, education, the history of Castilla and why the people of Léon want to separate from Castilla.

I met some lovely American women who are on their first camino. They were so happy to be here. We had fun discussing how good the Santiago cake is.

It feels like today has come full circle with the morning difficulties blending in with the pleasantness of the afternoon. As the bartender said to me, “There can be no light without the darkness”. Even more, the light and the dark together have made for a very good day.

Buen Camino

Today’s title is not a reflection of a hankering for things American. No. Rather it’s indicative of my lack of full understanding when it comes to ordering food.

I can never find exactly what I want on the Bob Evan’s menu but i know I can tell the waitress what I want and she will bring it to me: two eggs over easy, chicken sausage, dry whole wheat toast, jam, and coffee. Simple, no problem. But things are not the same in Spain.

This morning I asked for one fried egg, toast with jam, and coffee. The menu has two eggs with pieces of baguette. My toast was on the side with jam and my coffee. I hadn’t planned on the extra bread and I hate to waste food. So I wrapped the bread in my napkin and tucked it in my backpack along with the apple I bought yesterday.

So I had a good breakfast and later I can stop for a second cafe con leche and have a second breakfast.

Buen Camino

Once upon a time two pilgrims were walking the Camino when they came upon a sign. The sign was not very clear as to which way to go so they looked the sign over and debated what to do.

Pretty soon a local man and three local women came along. The man tried to explain to the Pilgrims which was the correct way to go. While the discussion was not heated by any means it was rather animated.

Soon my walking partner and I came upon this scene and we stopped to assess the question of direction. At one point I noticed the three women who were looking at us like three wise abuelas (grandmothers). They each nodded their heads to the right and give a gentle wave of their hands in that direction as if to say, “It’s ok we know the correct direction.” So we quietly went on our way and left the man with the pilgrims to hash out the meaning of the sign.

It was the correct direction so I guess the moral of the story is this, “when an abuela tells you which way to go, pay attention.”

Buen Camino

Hontanas, 9 September 2021

I think the church in Hontanas is my favorite along the camino. As you enter town there is a cafe at the top of a road that slopes down to the church.

I remember on the Camino two years ago that Glen was very tired and stopped there. I was convinced there would be a better place down the road.

When I came to the church I was immediately captivated by the prayer area set up with ancient chants playing. There was a young man kneeling and praying. Even more surprising there was a plate of cookies. There didn’t seem to be anyone from the church around. No one to make sure someone doesn’t steal the cookies or the candlesticks or even to make sure that the lit candles don’t burn the church down.

And so today I am here again. It’s all the same. The plate of cookies is gone but that’s probably a remnant of what COVID has given us. The entire church seems to say, come to me, all you who are weary and burdened and I will give you rest. Matthew 11:28

Buen Camino