Yes you read that right, .57 miles, not 5.7 miles. Piediluco to Poggio Bustone is a long uphill walk and it’s raining today. So I opted to take a taxi.
Once again my B&B is at the top of the town with no restaurants or markets in sight. However my host said she would bring me lunch and dinner (for a fee). At 1:00 pm she arrived with a huge plate of pasta and meatballs (homemade pasta), a salad, a pork chop, apples, and a bottle of homemade wine.
I could only eat half so the rest served as my dinner.
Now I shall address my lack of mileage. It’s not just that I took a taxi, because of the rain it was very cold. One thing we as Americans don’t understand is that in Europe when you can turn heat on and how high the temperature can be are regulated by the government. I know my cousin in France could not turn the heat on until November 1 (I think) and off in April. Plus she could not turn the heat any higher than 60 degrees.
Now back to my total lack of movement…I huddled in my bed wrapped in two blankets shivering.
Another beautiful on the camino. I keep hearing g about rain, but so far it’s been dry and sunny. Fingers crossed that it stays that way.
View from Arrone
Today is an up, up days. Signore explained that I could take the path (the Way of St. Francis) or the road which is not heavily trafficked. I said I’d take the path. However I didn’t find the path so I had to take the road.
It was a moderate uphill climb. Not enough to get winded so I was able to keep going. With a series of switchbacks I had to be careful around blind curves. At one point I was walking in the middle of the road and a little grandpapa passed me on a bike yelling to get to the side of the road. Sure gramps, right where an oncoming car can’t see me. On the bright side, it was so quiet on the road that any oncoming cars could be heard from quite a distance.
Not on the path, but on the road
Another beautiful vista
My lunch eaten in a park
Piediluco is situated on a lake
The coffee maker in my apartment. Yes I hit the “big cup” button, but this is all I received.
Today my friend and I parted ways. She is going to Rome and then Sardinia to meet friends from Germany and I am continuing on to Rome. I pray she has a wonderful time as the walking portion was not the best for her. Nonetheless this was her Camino and it doesn’t make it any more or less than mine.
Every pilgrimage has it difficult moments. Two days ago it was the massive descent from Monteluco and on to Scheggino. The next day it was climbing over a rock slide. Today was the most pleasant so far. Of course it doesn’t hurt that it was only 4 miles from Ferentillo.
The path was well marked and ran along the Nera river. Peaceful sounds of birds and water moving kept me company.
Nera River
The way into town was easy. I found the church quickly and as I entered I heard singers practicing contemporary Christian music. Three guitars, a keyboard, an four singers. It was lovely. I also found the priest an was able to receive a stamp for my pilgrim passport.
There’s a soccer, sorry “futbol” game going on nearby while I drink an Aperol spritz outside and try to put my feelings into words.
Near my B&B is a little church.
15th century chapel that seats about 20. When I walked in I had an immediate sensation that “I could worship here”. What if we returned to the church home with a designated area and each week the people would give to a ministry and share the worship? What if indeed?
And then there was another surprise. Should I be ashamed to admit this? Cocktail hour has moved up to about 4:00 pm if I arrive in town early and today I got my Aperol spritz at 3:45. And there in the little bar I found another surprise.
Yup it’s Lindt chocolates filled with Sambuca. Sambuca is an Italian liquor that tastes of black licorice. You can make that face (I know I am), but Glen loves this. So I bought all 5 pieces.
Now hopefully they will survive the rest of the Camino.
My stamp
Finally I have to tell you about the place I stayed. Casa Argenti is a beautiful little B&B at the top of the town in Arrone. The bedroom was immaculate and well furnished. Someone put a lot of love into it. The owners also have a restaurant next door.
Tiramisu in a teacup
This was absolutely the best meal of my camino and possibly the best meal I’ve ever had in Italy. And breakfast did not disappoint either.
And just to round things off, Signore made me a sandwich of my leftovers from dinner so I had a wonderful lunch on my walk to Piediluco.
Today was a really pleasant walk. Yesterday I veered off the Camino to walk through a park. So today I started off retracing my way back to pick up the Camino. It was sunny and the temperature was about 62 degrees. No need for a jacket once I warmed up walking. It was really quite unremarkable until…
About 5 miles in I met an Italian man and asked if this was the right direction for Ferentillo. He said yes. All good so far. Then he told me the road was rocky ahead. Well I told him that yesterday I walked down the mountain over large rocks. Then I pointed to a softball sized rock. And he said “beeg rock”. I nodded and wished him a buena giornatta (good day).
I walked on about 50 meters and ran into this…
Yup, that’s a rock slide. Now those are some “BEEG” rocks! I was totally flummoxed about how to get through. To the right was some sort of field of plants and it looked like someone tried to forge a path so I started that way. About 6 ft in I had scratches all over my legs. Then some bicyclists came by and shouted at me to try and climb over the rocks.
Bottom line…I made it. My big adventure of the day. As a bonus I met some Americans on the other side and was able to convey that these were more than “beeg” rocks.
I made it through the rock slide.
I continued on and about 3 miles from Ferentillo I was feeling a little tired but sure that I could go for another hour. Then I saw a man standing at a bus stop. I thought that looks like the bus might go to Ferentillo. I should have an adventure and ride the bus. After all doesn’t climbing over a rock slide cancel out a three mile bus ride? Why not?!
It was great. I got on and handed the driver a ten euro note. He said, “no change”, put the bus in gear and we took off. So now I’m looking for someone on the bus who has change. Finally behind me, another pilgrim, handed me two fives. But the driver still had no change. Then the guy behind fished out 6 euro coins. And thus I was able to pay for the bus ride.
At the church in town my friend was waiting with our luggage. The apartment we rented was way up the hill in town. Beware in Italy when the hotel says .3 miles from the town center that might be straight up. Our luggage transport took the bags and my friend up but our hostess called and said she would pick us up in the town center. So the luggage transport took my poor friend back down where she was stuck with two suitcases and two backpacks, unable to get around.
Shortly after I arrived our hostess showed up and off we went up the twisty winding road to the top of Ferentillo. Our hostess casually mentioned that she would love to visit the United States but she was afraid to fly. This from a woman who was careening around corners on a road that was barely wider than her car. Go figger.
The view from our room.
I believe this symbol means the the Via Di Roma runs concurrently (is that the correct word?) with the Way of St. Francis.
There’s a French song I learned as a little girl and it’s been in my head all day in a good way. I’ll try to translate it for you…
Dominic-a nica nica
Simply set out one day,
A poor traveler singing.
In every road and everywhere,
He only speaks of God.
He only speaks of God.
WOW! That pretty much sums up today. The sign says to Ceselli, but I actually went a little farther to Scheggino.
Today was a big down hill from Monteluco into the valley. It was a hard day but the sites and the events of the day made it so worth while.
It was a difficult and steep downhill. However when I stopped to look around the views were so amazing. I know my photos don’t do it justice. I think I would have to print them out as a mural to begin to capture the grandeur of it all.
I’m sure that those of you who know me are thinking, “This is crazy! Why would anyone walk like this?”. Perhaps it’s because I took yesterday off. Today I feel strong. And I will admit some days are very tough and I ask myself those questions as well.
AND THEN THERE WAS MARIO…
Farther on the trail I met two Italian men who told me that on down the path was a man who lives alone on the mountain. They called him “the lonely man”. I think in their translation it would be better to call him the “solitary man”. Hmmm…did I just hear Neil Diamond singing? These two men gave me a bag of food that they had forgotten to give Mario and asked me to deliver it. About half a kilometer I came across this…
And then I met Mario…
There are a few abandoned villages in the mountains and Mario found himself a little home and outfitted it with a wood burning stove and solar panels and he lives up there. He even has wifi and his own stamp for pilgrims.
Mario told me that he worked 22 years in IT and one day he had had enough. He came to the mountains camping for one night, then two, then three, then four and stayed. He even has his own Camino stamp.
He has a nice little set up, running water and solar panels. I don’t think I could live this kind of life though. OTOH it was the highlight of my day.
Even though it was a slow struggle I made it down the mountain and was rewarded by a flat paved road into Ceselli and afterward a 2 mile walk through a park into Scheggino.
The hotel was high up on a hill from the town center, but they had a golf cart to transport me up to the top.
So you’re probably wondering why my walking miles is so low. Well it’s because I took a taxi. Yesterday’s walk was so challenging and the climb today was very difficult (that’s what the guide said “very difficult”) and in combination with a poor night’s sleep (I was hurtin’ for certain) I decided there is no shame in taking a taxi.
Monteluco is beautiful. There is a monastery with an actual working group of monks. They are in another part of the building away from the places open for visitation. At one time it was also a convent.
To the right of me is the doorway into one of the cells. That is what the sleeping rooms are referred to. I’m only 5’2” and you can see that I am a head taller than the top of the door. That is because when one enters the room it is with head bowed and praying.
A cell
Tradition says that is is the rock Francis was sitting on when God called him to a life of poverty and service. The rock is what’s below the altar.
The owner of the hotel which is 100 years old, had a fascination with old motorcycles. These are just a few.
It might be a little hard to see, but this is the way they grilled meat for dinner. The waiter scoops hot coals out of the fire then places a grill over them and the meat on top. They must be well practiced at the timing of the cooking as nothing looked burned and no one sent food back.
Because the town is so high above the city it is also above the Way of St. Francis path. My friend has injured her leg so she is taking a taxi to Spoleto. I’m riding along the roughly 2 miles before starting the route.
Poreta, about 2 kilometers along the route to Spoleto
It’s a beautiful day. The sun is bright and it’s not too hot. In some ways I want to say it was uneventful. I guess it would be more accurate to say it was a good opportunity to get lost in my thoughts and not in the road like yesterday 😉😊.
The path
I was intrigued by the way the shadows were cast by the trees across the road
Now which way???
To the left is the path bit to the right is a house with beautiful poppies growi growing in the yard. Luckily I didn’t stray to far to see them.
It’s another beautiful day in Italy and now ready to leave Trevi and head to the next destination.
Things seem to be going well. We’ve walked out of Trevi and are heading to Clitunno which is just shy of Poreta.
The day is going well. And then…well the road just wasn’t marked as well as I thought it should be. You see I have no sense of direction. My daughter has negative sense of direction so if she thinks she should go right, she should turn left. For me every turn is a crap shoot and today was one of those days.
Here again are the differences between the Camino de Santiago and the Way of St. Francis. The map showed me walking along a trafficked road. A rather busy trafficked I might add. But there was a little path following the road so I took it. This happens a lot in Spain. It’s a safer way to walk. However my little path started curving to the left and going up and up until I was walking through an olive grove. Pleasant but not where I was supposed to be. So I backtracked.
I followed the road until I saw the blue and yellow marker that moved me on to a safer path.
Next the guide book said to go past the iron cross. The iron cross in Spain is a large formidable structure with piles of stones that people have left
Cruz de Ferro
Again the road was not marked well and after a few starts and backtracks my friend and I stopped at a corner to try and get our bearings when she looked up and said, “There’s the iron cross.“
Not quite what I was expecting.
Eventually we walked into the town of Clitunno and found a place for lunch.
Arancini: rice ball with meat and cheese stuffed inside and deep fried. One of Italy’s best creations.
After lunch we switched to gps to find our hotel. Don’t tell Google Maps, but sometimes it’s confusing. We meandered through a neighborhood getting lost and finally asked a young girl sunbathing and she gave us completely different directions. So we gave up and went back to the cafe to call a taxi.
We asked the owner, Fabio about a cab and he jumped up and said he’d take us. His car was a little dirty because he said he’d been driving the tractor earlier. But he got us to our hotel and insisted that we not pay him.
Fabio
We were so grateful because our hotel was at the top of the mountain next to a beautiful castle. It was originally two monasteries. The older of the two was built in the twelfth century and the newer in the fourteenth century. Eventually they merged. I doubt it was a hostile takeover, probably so few monks that it made sense to become one monastery.
A fresco from the twelfth century
On our hotel we celebrated our arrival with a limoncello spritz
Today was a long walk out of Foligno along a main street. I came to a place with a little church but the doors were locked. This is a big difference between the Camino Frances, and the Camino Portugues & the Way of St. Francis. In Spain all the churches seem to be open and every bar and hotel has a stamp for the pilgrim passport. So I was disappointed and decided to go across the street for second breakfast.
My disappointment was compounded when I saw that the bar had little more than drinks, coffee , and chips. So I settled for a cappuccino.
Just when I was about to get on my way 2 priests walked into the bar. It’s true, not a joke. So I asked if they could stamp my passport. We went back to the church.
I not only got a beautiful stamp, but the priest if he could give me a blessing.
And he signed it too
Today was a tough walk but somehow when someone blesses you it can’t be all that bad.
Spello to Foligno was a short walk. The distance was shorter, about five miles but I accumulated a lot of steps just walking to the cathedral.
My stamps for today
I was surprised when we stopped in the Church of San Feliciano and they were unable to stamp my pilgrim passport. They said I had to go to San Francesco. unfortunately San Francesco was closed and I had to wait until 5:00 pm. When the priest stamped my passport I asked if only Churches of San Francesco would stamp and he assured me it would be fine.
Now for the best part of the day
Welcome to Zuccarelli Ristorante
We had one of the best meals here. My appetizer was a slow cooked egg with a crispy crust and pork jowl in a saffron cream.
Amazing!
For me I had clams and pasta
And Laura had Paparadelle with asparagus
As you can see from the first picture and chef and the service were very nice and very proficient. It really was a most excellent meal.
The address is…
Via Della Zecca, 9
06034, Foligno
If you are ever in Foligno this is a no can miss! 😋
Buon Cammino
You never see a sign like this with a Shuh-TzuLost & FoundBelieve it or not, this was lunch at the gas station ⛽️
One day I decided to go for a walk... 