3 September 2023, Camino 3, Day 4

Los Arcos to Logrono

The blessings today began before we even left Estella. We stayed in a hotel about 2 km outside of town so we needed to walk back into Estella to begin our day. As we checked out the guy at the desk said he’d take us to Estella. The hotel had a shuttle that we knew nothing about.

The second blessing came as we waited for the guy to take us in the shuttle. There was a wedding at the hotel and lots of young couples and families attended. One young women was sitting outside with her 2 year old. The baby smiled at me and I sang Head, Shoulders, Knees and Toes, complete with body movements. He laughed and I was happy.

The third blessing came at lunchtime in Viana. On the camino it’s easy to lose track of the days. Today is Sunday and the streets are full of families congregating after church for a drink and a meals. Kids are playing soccer and babies are in strollers. We finally found a restaurant with tables inside. We looked like pilgrims, a bit dirty and sweaty, certainly not dressed in our finest attire. The waiter took no note and seated us. No menu in English and we couldn’t decipher the Spanish menu. Being adventurous people Glen pointed to the menu and our waiter said, “Si?” And Glen said “Si.” This is what he got.

The fourth blessing came along the route. A man driving on the road stopped and asked if we wanted water. He had some in the back of his car. Our water bottles were full but what a lovely surprise.

Finally today lived up to what yesterday started out to be. Overcast and cool, 62 degrees, but no rain. The road is mostly flat with a few rolling bumps.

2 September 2023, Camino 3, Day 3

Estella to Los Arcos

The forecast for today is rain. No problem. We stepped out from the hotel and immediately felt wonderful. There was a very light drizzle and the temperature was about 20 degrees cooler than yesterday. With our rain jackets and water resistant pants we were prepared to walk to Los Arcos.

We got about a quarter of a mile away from the hotel when I realized I had left my trekking poles in the lobby. I encouraged Glen to go on. He said he’d walk slowly so I could catch up easily. Well I retrieved my sticks and started back, but I stopped to take some pictures and there were less yellow arrows to indicate the way of the camino and it started to rain harder. Still I thought I can walk in this as long as my feet stay relatively dry. You clever fellow pilgrims, you already know I then stepped in a puddle up to my ankles. Now it’s really pouring and every step is squish-squish-squish-squish…. Still I thought this can’t last all day like this I can still walk to Los Arcos. I finally arrive at a little town called Irrachi. There’s a monastery here with a famous fountain with 2 spigots. One with wine and one with water, all for the Pilgrims.

I was all for stopping 4 years ago and partaking in a pilgrim tradition, but not today. Just past the monastery is an iron worker’s shop and work shop. 4 years ago I bought this necklace. I was keen to stop and buy some more for the grand children. So I ducked in thinking I’ll buy and keep going.

Well who should I find in his shop?…Glen, the young couple, another woman we met two days ago and several new people that we got to know. Our young Jewish friend even stopped by at one point.

We were there for 2 hours trying to get a taxi. Everybody along the camino where it was raining wanted a taxi. The rain was absolutely a deluge. On top of that the path changed from paved to dirt about 6 feet from the entrance and it was making a puddle that would require thigh high boots to traverse. We were cold, wet, uncomfortable, and stuck. And suddenly everything changed.

We began talking to one another in whatever language or gestures we could find in common. Even the Ferrier joined in. I got my 5 necklaces and he gave me a Tau made of iron (sorry I couldn’t find a picture to show you). The woman from the hotel said something to the Ferrier and they took off through the rain. They came back with a pot of hot coffee, a pot of hot milk, sugar, and a package of cookies that looked and tasted homemade. It was our own little feeding of the 8 if not the 5,000.

Finally the cab came and 7 of us piled in. Our driver took us to Los Arcos but we had to go 2 km farther because our hotel is just out of town. We were sad as each person got out at their stops. We were sad we didn’t make the walk to Los Arcos. We admired those who dared to brave the walk: the young couple and our Jewish friend. Perhaps this rain was God’s way of saying to us, “I know you want to walk, but I don’t want you to be weary when we walk together. Rest Pilgrim. I’m with you always.”

Buen Camino

August 30, 2023

Midway from Pamplona to Puenta La Reina

I have walked 9.6 miles to Alto de Perdon, which means Mount of Forgiveness. Here are the bronze statues depicting pilgrims under a field of stars. I love that expression “under a field of stars”. For more information click here.

31 august 2023, camino 3, day 1

Pamplona to Puenta la Reina

17.65 miles from rising to bed

Our past caminos started in St. Jean Pied de Port on the French side of the Pyrenees mountains. It’s a traditional start to the Camino Frances and about 400 pilgrims begin their walk each day. We, however are starting in Pamplona so this is about the fourth day for most pilgrims. We started in there because Glen and I have already walked over the Pyrenees and in fact I have walked them a twice (2019 and 2021). I now feel like I have nothing to prove.

So on today’s journey, which is no stroll in the park as you can see in the elevation profile, I met an American man. I asked him where he started from and he said, “Saint Jean Pied de Port. Where did you start from?”. When I told him I started from Pamplona he responded, “Oh”, which spoke volumes to me. What he was really saying is real pilgrims start in SJPdP and brave the mountains. So I looked at him and said, “So Mister I walked the Pyrenees like a real pilgrim, I have walked them twice and I don’t need to prove anything”. He smiled a little sheepishly and said, “yes”.

So if there’s a message for today it’s this…everybody has their own pilgrimage in life and no journey is better or worse than another. Do what’s right for you and do the best you can. And be kind to those you meet on the way. You don’t know what their journey is.

Buen Camino

30 August 2023 Pamplona

SPOILER ALERT: Despite the story you are about to read, I was not really stressed out over the events of today 😎

Paris to Hendaye, France

Hendaye, France to Irun, Spain via metro, 2 stops, 3€ 20 extra for the tickets

Irun to Vitoria, girl at the station told us to get off at the second stop and switch to the train to Pamplona. Our ticket is for Vitoria and then the next ticket is for Pamplona.

The train stops in Brinkola which according to the map on the train is the end of the line. THE END OF THE LINE! As if it’s Gandolf shouting, “You shall not pass!” We are totally at a loss because everyone on the train has dispersed and the train station looks like a bombed out building from WWII when I spot two guys wearing green shirts get out of the last car. I watch them and notice they get into the first car. They must work for the train company. I run into the car and…they’re not there 😮. Luckily they are in the engineers room and they tell me not to worry. We’re going back to Irun but they tell us to get off at Zumarraga where we can get a train to Pamplona. Yes!

The train goes to Zumarraga in the opposite direction of Vitoria. Here we talk to someone at the station who speaks no English and my Spanish barely extends beyond ordering a cafe con leche. He says to get back on the train (still going in the opposite direction, get off at Araia and take the train to Pamplona. Great! Our ticket doesn’t say that but he says not to worry and I trust him.

Zumarraga to Araia, the conductor herds us to the very back of the train because this train is actually going to Madrid and it’s going to separate and we don’t want to be on the wrong end of that. We’ll get the train to pamplona there.

Araia to Pamplona, as we approach Araia the conductor suddenly yells for everyone to stay on the train. There’s no train to Pamplona there so we’re going to Vitoria. Does this seem familiar?

Vitoria to Pamplona, the conductor hustles us off the train and says to go quickly to platform one where we are to run at a brick wall which will magically transport us to platform 9 3/4…no wrong story. I go into the train station to make sure this train will go to Pamplona. I can’t understand the ticket agent so I keep saying Pamplona and he responds DE LIE. It’s like a bad game of Marco Polo. Finally the guy next to him intervenes and says DELAYED! We saunter to the platform and the ticket agent comes running out to tell us the train is not delayed it’s about to leave! We manage to board and before the door closes I yell to another agent, “Pamplona?” and he responds “si”. This train is headed to Barcelona. I hope it stops in Pamplona 😬.

Arrival at the train station in Pamplona at 6:00 pm. We are 30 minutes late but amazingly we have made it to Pamplona in what must be the most convoluted route. What an adventure! 😁😁😁

Buen Camino